Tranquilo, mi corazon. Esta bien!
It is 100% possible to do this on your own. I've done it three times, each using different method of travel. Here is the easiest. One weekend in Bocas del Toro will cost about $55 for transportation to and from San Jose (not including taxi), $6 for Panama stickers (not optional), and $38 for lodging at Casa Verde for 3 nights. You should bring at least $40 in US money to the border. There's an ATM on Bocas del Toro to pay for the rest of your things. (US currency is a second official currency of Panama.)
Two weeks before
- Make your reservation at a hostel. My top picks? Bocas Bound if you don't want to stay on the main island, or Casa Verde if you do.
- Gather up your: passport; flight information for when you leave Costa Rica
- Pack your shtuff. Bug spray and sun screen are musts. More important, in fact, than your underwear. Also, a bathing suit is pretty important. Oh! And dramamine if you tend to get queasy.
- Buy your bus ticket to Sixaola for 6 AM at Caribenos.
- Dress in comfy clothing that do not go past the tops of your (close toed) shoes if you get nervous with heights AND/OR are clumsy.
- Show up at Caribenos terminal at 5:45 a.m.
- Climb into the bus exhausted from a crazy night out before, pop two dramamine, and cuddle your luggage as the bus starts up.
- Arrive at Sixaola. Locate the REALLY BIG BRIDGE and walk to it. Go to the Customs office on the Costa Rica side.
- Eye the bridge you're about to spend some quality time with. Note all of the loose nails and holes. Feel soul shattering terror. (But don't worry-- your pants won't snag on the loose nails because YOU followed my recommendation about clothing-- right?)
- On the other side of the bridge, there will be men trying to help you and a line forming at Panama customs. Do NOT go straight to the Customs line. Look for the stairs, and go to the ticket selling booth. There you will purchase a $12 bus ticket. They'll ask you for your passport to make sure that you use the ticket. I still don't understand that.
- Walk back up the stairs, and try to ignore the children who are eating lunch and still telling you that they are starving and need your money. If you must give in, buy them food.
- Do the Customs thing on the Panama side. Pay for your $3 sticker.
- Let the sketchy seeming men load you into a van with a bunch of other tourists. This usually costs around $10.
- After a really long van ride, you'll get dropped off in front of a water taxi station. Tip the teenager who helped with your luggage, pay a $4 fee, and arrive in Bocas del Toro.
Three days later...
- Collect all your stuff. Make sure your passport, some money, flight information, and bus ticket are easily accessible.
- Take the 8 am water taxi to Almirante. (You can catch the 8:30, but that can be cutting it pretty close.)
- When you dock, you will likely be swarmed by a group of people shouting taxi. These are the same slightly sketch people that bombarded you before. Join them. It should be cheaper-- you need to go to Changuinola this time, NOT Sixaola.
- After the van is filled, it will take you to your bus, or where your bus will be.
- Give them your ticket. It will be dated from the day you bought it. It is valid for up to a year.
- The bus will again drop you off to deal with customs on one side, and you will again walk to the other. Cough up another $3 to leave Panama.
- Walk across the bridge in a terrified manner. Scowl at small children who mock you by running across.
- Deal with customs on the other side. If you don't have your flight info, for whatever reason, they'll let you print it at a pharmacy... for $3. No, it's not gold-leafed. Also, remember to say that you are a TOURIST when entering Costa Rica again, or you could have problems.
- Stop and get a fresh squeezed orange juice, pop your dramamine, and climb on the bus. Or go in the store to buy snacks and ice cream-- it's probably hot by now.
- Wait on the bus. For what feels like ever. But I promise, they will eventually leave!
- You will, at some point, make it to San Jose. Keep your passport readily available, though; police may stop the bus and ask to see 'em.
- Panama is in a different time zone than Costa Rica-- it is an hour later. (It's 10 o'clock here, it's 11 o'clock in Panama)
- There are a lot of really spiffy tours you can take. Casa Verde offers some on the cheap, but there are other independent operators throughout town. Depending on your skills, you can usually barter the independents down.
- If you are strapped for cash, there is a restaurant on the mainstreet. They have good meals for about $5-- lunch and dinner.
- Fresh fruit is delicious here. Try the pineapple.
- There's a lot of nightlife, but the Barco Hundido is worth a visit. (Note: when I went, Friday was ladies' night. Free drinks for girls until midnight. Vodka is not included, but a liquor called Seco is. It's basically guaro. Just a heads up.)
- If you go to Starfish Beach, wear shoes and avoid contact with the sand as much as possible, lest you end up with fiberglass-like shard in your feet... or bathing suit bottoms. (Very uncomfortable, I promise.)
